This is the compact Bottlebrush reaching 3′-5′ ( top photo ), the bottom two photos are of the larger form and were taken at Lady Bird Johnson Gardens in Austin. The red flowers are most common, there is also a pink flowering variety.
Protect from cold, it will sometimes return from roots after a frost.
Full sun, possibly drought tolerant once established, opinions vary. It prefers to be in moist soil.
Blooms when weather is warm, loved by butterflies and hummingbirds
Considered an invasive in Florida, also considered to be a good plant for bonsai.
Native to Australia, unclear if it should be in Myrtaceae family or Callistemons.
Propagate by cuttings
Note: I also purchased several traditional Bottlebrushes (Callistemon) and placed them along fences to use to cover the fence. I have some in shade, full sun, a mix of both and dry and wet areas. So far they all seem to be settling in despite the late planting.
These can be kept trimmed as a hedge, let grow up as trees by removing lower branches, or shaped as a topiary.
Large shrub, growing to small tree size here in Texas, attracts birds, deer resistant, drought resistant, grows in sun or part shade, prefers damp soil. You can keep these short and bushy, make a hedge, grow them as small trees or use them for topiaries.
Native to Japan and Korea
Brought to US in 1800s for use as a hedge plant, became invasive in warmer parts of US. The wood was used for pegs, the berries for dye, leaves as an astringent. It makes a great nesting place for birds who will eat the berries.
Problems: Sooty mold, control with liquid dish soap mixed with water and sprayed on leaves
I liked it so much I bought 20 small plants on eBay, I’ll be running them along the fence out back. They shipped much later than I expected, today is June 14th, nothing should be planted between May 1st and Oct 31st, but perhaps I’ll get lucky and we’ll get a rainy summer?
I had forgotten about this tree, it was so buried in deep shade in a very dry section of the garden. It has survived droughts, floods, frosts, and bright, hot Houston afternoon sun before the oak shaded it out. Despite this it’s about 12′ tall and about 6′ across. I think I picked it up at an Arbor Day Give a Way as a 12″ tall twig.
Last year I cleared out a lot of the overhead branches and it must’ve received enough sun to bloom, or the cold tripped it? Many fruit trees, even ornamentals, need several nights below freezing to flower and fruit. Be sure to check the number of ‘chill days’ needed on any fruit tree you buy. Only a few get enough nights below freezing in Houston to fruit.
Mine’s not an impressive bloomer, perhaps now that it has bloomed it’ll improve each year? I have seen many of these putting on impressive shows around town. I’m hoping with the added sun this one will too next spring.
Blooming occurs late Feb. early March
I highly recommend it. I’ll try taking a few cuttings in the fall and see how easy it is to propagate. I’d love to have a few more of these around.
I love this plant. So I planted him right outside my office window. However, it is far shadier than he would like. Indigo prefers part sun, but it can become invasive given too much sunlight. It will send out suckers and become very dense over time. It is often used as a ground cover in difficult forested areas.
Leaves fall off in the fall and return early to late spring depending on how much sun the indigo receives. It can die back to the ground in cold winters, but will return when the weather warms.
In time it will become a full bush with lots of flowers every summer. This indigo was planted last summer and is barely settled in this year.
It is not particular about the soil and is known as a good plant to try in difficult areas. It is a spreading shrub, so be sure to give it some room.
Once established it is heat and drought tolerant.
Indigo will reach about 3′ tall in full sun 1′-2′ otherwise with a 2′-3′ spread.
Flowering is on new branches.
It is a very, very slow grower.
This died back to the ground in the cold winter of ’09-’10 and didn’t reappear until late May.
I find them easy to propagate with cuttings.
In times of famine the seeds have been boiled and eaten or ground into flour.
Survived, grew and bloomed during the heat wave-drought of summer 2011.
Sagos grow leaves from a central trunk that can get 2′ in diameter, very old sagos have been found with trunks 20′ across. Trunks may branch.
Leaves are 3′-4′ long. Leaves are longer on plants grown in shady areas.
These plants send off suckers near the base that should be cut back. This is not easy as they grow close to the main plant which has a rough stem with barbs. Wear your thick leather gloves to prune this plant. Reproduction is also by seed.
Sago palms grow best in full sun. I have one in almost full shade and one in full sun. Both are doing well. The one in the sun is taller with shorter fronds. The one in the shade only has 3 flushes of leaves, but they are much longer than the other. I’ve found with a yearly dose of either Shultz with rooting hormone or worm castings once a year the sago in the shade will put out one flush for me and the one in front will put out two flushes a year.
Do not over water them. They are drought tolerant, but will grow slowly, if at all during droughts.
They can comfortably with stand temperatures as low as 25’F. It was about 18’F that burned the one in the photo. All over town they look like that.
Cycads are one of the oldest living plants on earth. They were here 270-280 million years ago, that would be predate the dinosaurs. They are considered the missing link between non-seed plants and plants that propagate by seed. They have also changed little in the 275 or so million years they have been here.
There are at least 185 species known of cycad now, some common, some endangered. If you see an unusual one at the nursery, bring it home and plant it. It is up to gardeners to spread out and propagate all the threatened species we run across.
If you are having trouble getting your sago to flush ( make new leaves ) remove the bottom third of the fronds. The plant will try to keep roots and leaves in balance. When you remove the leaves it will get busy making more of them. You can remove up to half of the lower fronds each year with out hurting the plant.
The seeds are toxic, female plants take about 9 months to fully develop the seeds so you’ll have lots of time to remove them. They will kill a small dog or cat if eaten. The leaves are also toxic containing carcinogens and neurotoxins.
I am not sure but I believe only the female sagos get the pups off the main stem. I’m still looking for more sources to confirm that.
In Houston manganese deficiencies are common, if new leaves are yellow your plant needs manganese. If new leaves are pale green it is likely iron you are lacking.
Fungal leaf spot can be a problem in high humidity. It appears as black spots with yellow rings, just like black leaf spot on roses.
Scale is a problem until the plant gets tall enough to keep the fronds off the ground
My sago is getting pups which are baby plants off the trunk of the mother. These need to be removed. It’s going to be more of a project than I thought. I’m told washing the dirt away with a garden hose, then using a saw to cut them from the mother plant is the best option. If you cut the leaves off the pup then replant the pups about half way in soil. You will get new plants. It may take a couple of years to get the new plants so plant them somewhere out of the way in your garden.
One of the few plants to thrive during the 2011 drought and heat wave.
I know the queen palms are difficult to see in these photos, I’ll post clearer ones as they mature. They are the tall, thin palms with arching leaves 10′-15′ long. They usually retain a canopy of about 12-18 leaves.
They’ve been in the ground about 4 months and already they’ve grown a foot or two. I picked up 3 at $10/each last spring. Any plant being sold cheap you can count on to be a fast grower.
The expected height at full growth is 50′ with a 30′ spread according to the tag, yet all the ones I’ve seen around town are quite compact in width. Time will tell.
They like sun, semi moist soil and the tag claims they can handle temperatures as low as 10’F but most sources say no lower than 20’F. This year has been quite dry and one of the three palms is located where the irrigation does not reach, weekly watering seems sufficient for them.
There seems to be some confusion about the botanical name, there are three I’ve found it keeps being moved from one location to the next.
They are native to South American and the Caribbean, considered invasive in Florida and parts of Australia.
These died the first winter I had them. idk? The stores always have them, but they didn’t handle the cold in my gardens.