Freeloading orchid relies on mushrooms above and below ground

Plants are well known for their deceptive ways, orchids being the worst of the bunch

The non-photosynthesizing orchid species Gastrodia pubilabiata mimics rotting mushrooms or fermented fruit, and is pollinated by fruit flies who mistakenly lay their eggs in its flowers. If there are rotting mushrooms near the orchid, its pollination rate increases. As well as using mushrooms to attract insect pollinators, G. pubilabiata survives by absorbing nutrients from the fungal hyphae of mushrooms. This is the first time a plant has been discovered to depend on mushrooms both above and below ground. more…

Read the paper:
Achlorophyllous orchid can utilize fungi not only for nutritional demands but also pollinator attraction

Zygopetalum

Zygopetalums are usually heavily scented. They are considered an easy growing plant and many hybrids are on the market.

Water enough to keep the roots from drying but don’t let it sit in water.

Moderate light, no direct sun, but bright indirect sun.

I plant all my orchids in semi-hydro now. Use a shallow glass container, fill it with pebbles ( usually clay ) and keep just a little water in the bottom of the container.

Zygon: means yoked petal

Native to South American ( Venezuela, Peru, Brazil ) rain forests about half way up the mountains, usually in recently disturbed locations that have an increase in light.

The flowers are often green with purple splotches. The lip usually has white stripes.The pseudobulbs tends to be rounder than most

I’ve found references as far back as 1839 on hybridization and care of Zygopetalums.

Epiphytes

Researchers have identified the gene related to the greenish flower mutation in the Habenaria orchid

Chysis bractescens

I potted this in semi-hydro ( glass pot, clay pellets, about an inch of water well below the root level ) I’ve had fantastic luck with the other orchids potted this way.

I’ve read Chysis bractescens should not dry completely out, but let them get drier and cooler in the winter or they won’t bloom in the spring. This one is two years old. I’ve found they need to be kept wet, semi hydro has worked out very well, I’d plant them in sphagnum otherwise. I think bark will be too dry. I keep it wetter than any of my other orchids.

Like all orchids they need a good dose of fertilizer each watering.

No direct sunlight, keep above 60’F. (mine gets some direct sun very early in the morning, dappled light the rest of the morning, house lighting only after that. )

Fragrant at night, spring bloomer with fat canes, self fertilizing, typically grown in a basket. When well cared for can reach 2′ in height.

The leaves should get much longer as it grows 15″-16″ in length, the flower stem to about half that length. The flowers grow from the base of the plant, the leaves near the top of the canes. Older leaves drop off over the winter, sometimes only the roots survive the winter.

Blooms every spring, a few cold nights (55’F) are absolutely necessary to get it going. Newest bud, not yet open, appeared the first week of March. Last year I kept it inside on a windowsill. That’s cold enough for the phals and dends to bloom but not for this plant. This year I put it out in the greenhouse where the nights are much colder and I have two flower spikes.

Central American native first described in 1840. Popular Victorian orchid, I’m seeing it listed for sale more often.

It is currently a protected species. Grows on trees in wet, thick, forest or on rocks ~ 350′-2000′.

Introduced to growers in 1840 by George Baker

Chrysis is Greek for melting. The flowers self fertilize and tend to melt into a clump after blooming

Dendrobium spectabile

Like many house plants, these were no where, then all of a sudden everywhere. These just arrived a few weeks ago, so I may change this as I have some time to experiment with them.

These arrived at about 18″, the stalks will reach 36″ when it is full grown. There are no flowers or spikes but they are large enough to bloom. It may be next year before I see flowers. You’ll need a drafty windowsill to give the the 15′ temperature drop they need to go into blooming mode.

These are from Papa New Guinea, and like most island tropicals they grow in a very narrow temperature range, 70’F-80’F. I’d keep them inside, even in the summer.

I recently shifted all my orchids to a semi-hydro ( clay pellets ), they’ve all done extremely well so these are planted that way as well. They are in 6″ glass cubes, the bottom third is pellets, the plant roots are spread around the top 2/3 and clay pellets have been worked in between and around the roots. They were extremely root bound when they arrived in their 4″ pots.

Water and fertilize less in the winter, this is supposed to help encourage blooming.

I’ve read they need quite a bit more sunlight than other dendrobiums and most other orchids. I’ve placed them in a southwest facing window with very little shading ( in Houston ). We’ll see how it goes. They’ve survived the first few weeks but it’s been cloudy. This window is bright enough to burn other orchid plants but not Venus Fly traps or other carnivorous swamp plants.

These turned out to bloom as easily as other dendrobiums. Put them on a window sill so they’ll get the winter temperature drop and give them just a tiny bit more light than other dendrobiums. They will burn if given too much light. The flowers are heavily scented.